Dream Destination: Khao Sok National Park

A glimmering lake, wending its way through the limestone karsts of one of the world’s oldest rainforests, which existed for millions of years before humans ever set foot in the country we now know as Thailand. I often wonder what it must have been like for those early peoples, seeing such a momentous view for the first time without the pre-existing expectations from having seen it ten thousand times before in photographs and on screens. When I first laid eyes on Khao Sok, I realised I’d ventured somewhere truly special, as the sight of the vertiginous evergreen columns plunging into smooth aquamarine waters was completely awe-inspiring – even for someone forewarned by a surfeit of almost-identical Insta snaps and countless posters plastered on the walls of Bangkok travel agents. Khao Sok, does (forgive the platitude) have to be seen to be believed. Read on for all the reasons why you need to add this to your bucket list.

Catch a Long-Tail Boat and Gaze at Ancient Rainforest

It is said that the rainforest here is even older than the Amazon. Heavy monsoon rainfall and falling vegetation over time lead to erosion, causing the magnificent towers of limestone that the region is so famous for. The best way to enjoy Khao Sok national park is by taking a boat trip on Cheow Lan Lake, as this will give you first-hand experience of the sheer scale of the landscape. Catch traditional long-tail boats at Ratchaprapha Marina, complete with a local guide who will take you to the best parts of the lake. You can either splash out on a private boat or find other travellers to split the cost.

Sleep in a Floating Bungalow

Once on Cheow Lan Lake, you can choose to stay overnight on the lake in floating bungalows – what better way to fall asleep than the sound of water lapping just meters away as you drift off to the gentle rock of your authentic Thai raft house? Wake up to a dawn chorus of jungle birds and enjoy your morning coffee sitting out on the deck with your feet dangling in the water – city life will seem like a distant memory! The most luxurious option is 500 Rai Floating Resort, which even has its own spa where you can treat yourself to a Thai massage.

Jungle Hikes and Wildlife Spotting

For those feeling adventurous, there are plenty of trails winding their way through the jungle, tranquil in the dappled light seeping through the thick bamboo. Make sure to gaze upwards as the path undulates between impossibly tall trees, which will occasionally shake as a gibbon leaps through the canopy above. The jungles of Khao Sok National Park are home to an abundance of wildlife, from elephants and monkeys to flying foxes, hornbills and even winged lizards. You are allowed to hike independently (and the trails are easy to follow), however a guided jungle trek (you can choose from day or night-time treks or even multi-day jungle safaris) will enable you to learn to recognise local plants and the signs and sounds of various creatures living in the rainforest, from the melodies of jungle birds to funnel-shaped tarantula nests. It’s hard to believe that this rich landscape was only fairly recently under considerable threat – losing up to 3% of biodiversity a year due to overenthusiastic logging in the 70s. Fortunately for the jungle, a group of anti-government insurgents hid out in some caves in the area, and their warfare against the regime also coincidentally helped keep the miners and loggers away for seven years, allowing the wildlife to flourish.

Caves with Stalagmites and Stalactites

There’s more than at first meets the eye in Khao Sok National Park, as the landscape is riddled with hidden caves, where formations of calcareous rock form jagged stalagmites and stalactites. Some of these, such as Pakaran Cave and Pra Kay Petch, are only accessible by boat. The formation of the caves is slowly but constantly changing, as water drips down and deposits infinitesimally small amounts of calcium, which gradually builds up into the formations you see before you. There’s life in the caves too – so keep an eye out for cave-dwelling creatures such as bats and spiders! You can also visit Tham Si Ru, the cave where the communist insurgents hid out in the late 70s. Keen spelunkers may enjoy a guided adventure through Nam Thalu cave, but this is not to be done if you’re at all claustrophobic, as it involves wading knee-deep in an underwater stream through half a kilometer of increasingly constrictive underground channel, where there’s a risk of flooding in the wrong weather – admittedly not exactly my cup of tea!

How to get to Khao Sok National Park

Located in the south of Thailand, Khao Sok is often overlooked in favour of the islands, but trust me, you won’t regret going slightly out of your way to pay a visit. The easiest way to reach Khao Sok is to hire your own car and drive from Khao Lak (1 hour), Surat Thani or Krabi (2 hours) or Phuket (3 hours). Alternatively, there are local buses, minivans and taxis. Just be aware – the boat wharf at Cheow Lan Lake (Ratchaprapha Marina) is about an hour’s drive further along Route 401 from Khao Sok Town itself.

When to go

Wet season is, broadly speaking, from late April to December, although the weather can be unpredictable all year round. The most rainfall occurs between June and September, but the tail end of the wet season, if timed right, can be the sweet spot where there are enough sunny days but before the main crowds arrive. We went in late October/early November and were lucky with a gloriously sunny day. The dry season is fairly short, from January to early-April, and it’s still best to be prepared with a waterproof jacket just in case!

Need to know

You’ll need to pay an entrance fee of 300 Baht to enter the national park. (This may already be included if you book a group tour).

Read my other posts about Thailand here.

Find out more about visiting Khao Sok National Park here.

Or visit the Thai National Parks website here.